The school by itself takes a lot of time, and the dorm is quite far away from school and climbing wall, so sometimes I study on my way to training and back. This also means no time for rock climbing. I really miss the rock and it is so sad that there are so many famous climbing areas around and I just can’t even touch them… Some things need to be sacrificed sometimes in order to reach your goals.In meantime, I signed the sponsorship contracts with Trangoworld and Scarpa, and got support from Morpho climbing holds! I can’t find the proper words to express my thankfulness to these people!
I received the package from Trangoworld, full of colorful clothes. I am still waiting for climbing shoes to arrive. Can’t wait! :DI survived first two months in Slovenia and one-week holiday arrived – time to go home students! Oh, yes, Stasa goes to Prilep…So everyone here in the dorm got so excited about going home, except me 🙂 I was excited about my skin being destroyed from the granite of Prilep, and about coming back from the rocks totally in pain, thinking that all muscles that exist are probably dead, but feeling so awesome about it, enjoying just being surrounded by all those beautiful boulders and finding the piece of art in every single block. Maybe that is all usually happening to my mind under the influence of exhaustion, but it always feels good.I was impatiently waiting for it, but I was welcomed with finding out how terrible my climbing is. First two days were a complete disaster, but since I accepted the fact I can’t change anything now, and that I should lower my expectations, I felt much better and I enjoyed climbing.Since I could not climb harder boulders, I tried highballs (for those uninformed, very high boulders, no rope). If you don’t feel strong, be insane 🙂 I climbed a couple of them and tested my “balls” (I apologize for bad language). It feels so good when you know you won over your fears and you sort of get addicted to that feeling, you want more excitement, like an adrenalin-addict. Something must be terribly wrong with me these days…My good friend Borna was in Prilep as well. I feel so proud of him for crushing Velika smetka 8A and flashing may 7C’s out there.After a couple days spent climbing and also posing in new Trangoworld outfit, I actually went home. But just for a few days.
Now I am in Maribor again, recollecting impressions from yesterday’s Slovenian national lead competition in Skofja Loka, where I finished on fifth place.And for the end, here are some photos from Prilep 🙂Borna in Velika smetka 8A:
And one more from Skofja Loka last night:
I wanted to have fun and climb a bit in speed and ended on 5th place! Imagine that irony. I trained speed twice in a whole year and had a better result than in the discipline I brought myself to the limits.Lead is finished and now it is time to concentrate on bouldering cups! I can’t describe my excitement about bouldering that covered that horrible disappointment in my lead climbing.When I came home I had to finish my school obligations, many exams at music school waited for me to come back.
And the happiest day of my sister’s life came – she got married! We were all so happy about her and maximally enjoyed the wedding. She is currently on her honeymoon in Cuba :DNext week I am going to Valjevo for hunting some rocks.Enjoy your life!Stasa
Only thing I got was power. I figured out that in a short period of time I can bring my body to the very high level of strength. So I used this fact to plan my beginning of the season 2014 :)Winter break lasted three weeks, there was no snow, no low temperatures, new crashpads… so you can guess how this break passed 😀 climbing, climbing and nothing else. There are some boulders in Jelasnica, so I wanted to climb them all! Of course, there are more boulders than I thought…I started working on my power, as I planned, but at some medium level. Beside campusing, outdoor and indoor bouldering, on my schedule was also a gym, preparing my body for some extreme effort.Now the weather is even better! No reason not to start endurance trainings. Last week, after just one week of pupming and painful screaming, I decided to go rock climbing (lead) for the first time this year. I repeated Starscream 8a+! My whole body was like “OMG!!” Thats how stars scream! Or maybe Stars Cream? Never mind…I am standing in front of a hard session.
I also can’t wait to go bouldering in Prilep in the beginning of April!I wish all climbers around the world happy start of this season 🙂
I miss you guys…
Let’s get back to the competition.
It lasted all day (7.12.2013.). I didn’t have problems in qualification. Everything was just perfect. But the most interesting thing was that the best three competitors had to make their own boulder problem 😀 I was full of inspiration. When I was done, I felt so proud of myself. The boulder was a bit acrobatic- my advantage. 360° turnings and then toe-hooks.
Well we can’t say it is impossible anymore
I noticed a small pocket where it used to be a jug, and I thought it is enough to make it possible again.
The only thing that could stop me was the bad weather
After many tries, today I succeeded! On 5°, quite challenging 🙂 It was almost dark when I managed to hold myself on one phalanx, totally exhausted and depressed after so many tries. I was relieved when i stayed on the rock and reached the top, “Finally”.
Imagine this today’s situation: My dad, so nervous, my mom belaying (also nervous) standing in a limited space and me fighting in the hardest part. I do the hardest move, i fully hold the pocket, there is one hard move left and that’s it – end of the overhang. Now I have to clip the quickdraw… I can’t pull the rope.I think ok, gri-gri blocked. Then again, it doesn’t move! Again and again… and I am getting more and more nervous… well it wasn’t the gri-gri that blocked, it was my mom who didn’t notice she stepped on the rope . I fell, of course, and started yelling like an idiot. Luckily there was no one around 🙂 don’t worry, I forgave her 😉
That’s my third 8b in my life. I officially closed the rock season 2013.
Next weekend Sofia is expecting me, boulder competition. Wish me luck.
I trained hard and I didn’t know to stop. “It’s not enough yet”, it was on my mind all the time. One week before the competition I had terrible pain everywhere in my body, the pain that couldn’t be ignored. I thought it was my weakness, but it turned out I was wrong. I could really hurt myself if mom didn’t come and told me to stop. There was simply no excuse.
The journey to France was long. We had to stop at some cities to have training and we decided it should
be Munich. What a great decision to make! But I was super tired and I wasn’t really satisfied with my performance. But it was late night when we arrived, so I guess I could forgive myself.
Next stop of the “Gejo Express” was Paris. Nice sightseeing in the cold night, Eiffel tower, Louvre, Notre Damme, but such a pity we couldn’t see everything. We stayed only one day, but better than nothing!
And Laval, cute asymmetric, multicolored city.
I’m not going to bore you more, so let’s write about the competition. The qualifications were early in the morning. During the warming up i felt so powerful and self confident. But the qualifications didn’t start as expected. Complete failure in first minutes made me doubt myself. I tried to reject bad thoughts. “Let’s start again”, and so i did. But I can’t say I dominated and that everything went perfect. Summary I had too many tries, and one try left on last boulder. Very risky situation, wasn’t it? No more place for calculations. What a pressure… I only imagine my dad’s face and thoughts :/ not a nice picture in that moment. So, I new I had to do it, that’s what we came here for. I entered this tricky boulder and climbed it in that last, fifth try. Happiness, nothing else 😀
Finals were that same day in the evening. So motivated and released from all the pressure, I just danced through the boulders. Those were my special moments, my power, my victory. The lights were simply amazing, music might have been too loud, but it didn’t matter to me anymore. Music was moving me, giving me strength, energy, life. Audience was awesome. So many people were there, simply amazing. So many reasons to feel motivated! The victory was the crown to everything I experienced that evening. I have no words left to describe it. I’ll just let you imagine it 🙂
Again I will apologize for being late, that’s because this blog was born today! Happy birthday, blog!